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Budapest has a very long and interesting history that I’m not even close to qualified to write about. So I won’t. In relatively recent memory though, during the post-WWII cold-war, much of eastern Europe was under the rule of Soviet communist doctrine. The oppression hit different countries in different ways. For Hungary’s capital, Budapest, the sin-city of the east, the borderline hedonistic mecca to which well-to-dos would flock for nights of unbridled debauchery and skulduggery, the communist rule imposed was by contrast made that much more stark. It’s therefore not hard to imagine that when the wall finally did come down, Budapest not only shook off the Moscow-forged shackles, it flipped the Kremlin the bird and possibly exposed some figurative posterior in their former oppressor’s general direction. How? Well, through Memento Park for one:

Memento Park is just outside the city limits on the Buda side but still accessible using Zone 1&2 transit ticket so you get out there for a song on bus 101E. It’s different from most other parks in that it is a veritable elephant graveyard of Soviet-era statues and monuments. Statues of individuals, both real and allegorical, instead of being destroyed and forgotten, are, depending on your perspective and persuasion, basically laughingstocks as they become forced participants in goofy selfies. If this isn’t one of the more overt acts of humiliating a former bully, I’d like to see one that is. The park itself is small and can easily be covered in under an hour. Before heading back however, saunter across the lot in front of the park to an aptly grey block that promises further discovery. My interest was piqued by the “… at your own risk” that they took the trouble of translating into English. Hidden away from public view as if mercifully spared the mockery thrust upon their open-air comrades, these statues and busts should not be missed by the curious traveller in search of sights not commonly seen.

Due to the geological conditions underneath Budapest, it’s no secret there are commercial mineral baths aplenty for tourists and locals alike, to visit for their ostensible healthful properties. Out of them all, we basically randomly decided on the Széchenyi Thermal Bath. Not only is the swim suit non-optional, you really should bring your own flip-flops unless you want to buy some onsite and if you intend to flaunt your physique in the lap pool, a bathing cap is mandatory. The shrill sound of the life-guard’s whistle invariably meant that more individuals – rebellious, ignorant or both – were about to get tossed out of said pool. The bathing attire isn’t the only foresight that’s recommended. Advance booking online is a second and arriving early for a morning dip before the crushingly busy afternoons is a third.

In addition to the larger pools outside, the inside with its different kinds of saunas and smaller pools with various temperatures and intended purposes and benefits are also not to be missed. The main sauna, at least on the upper levels, is hot enough that I suspect even discerning Finns would subtly nod their heads in silent approval. After a self-inflicted broil, the 18॰ C cool-off pool was just what the doctor ordered. Speaking of which, there are warning signs posted in three languages that only people of good health should enter these saunas and after nearly setting my nose hairs ablaze after just a few minutes, I will have to concur.

One last thing to keep in mind, and this is especially apparent in the indoor pools where the light is less bright; The highly mineral water, whose chemical composition is posted on a wall, is not without colour. There is a slightly darker hue to the water that I can only assume is related to its natural origins and lack of chemical processing before it reaches these natural mineral baths. After all, it seems inconceivable that dirty individuals disregarding the shower requirement, managed to soil the water in each pool to the exact same extent. If you are really squeamish and would raise your hand when germaphobes are requested to make their presence known, these baths may be better to read about then to attend in person.

 

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