After a day of work and feverishly trying to determine where in Puglia we’d go for our next day trip, we hopped on the Bari-bound train but instead of riding it for 90 minutes to the end we got off after 20 minutes at Ostuni. Ostuni is also known as the White City for somewhat obvious reasons and what makes it even more striking is that the historic part of this dazzling town is located on a hill in an otherwise fairly flat landscape. This gives it a imposing presence, a fact which undoubtedly influenced the catholic church before they decided to build a cathedral at the very top of said hill.
The Ostuni train station is a good half-hour-plus walk from Ostuni proper however and while there is a shuttle that takes weary travelers across and up the hill, it was a gorgeous day, sunny and windy like we were in Aix en Provence so I decided with husbandly wisdom that surely consumed any brownie points I may had at that point accrued (and then some) to walk instead. The fitbits were getting restless, so why not? Well, even though we did have the beckoning olive orchards immediately on our left as we walked, it was hard to converse and enjoy the moment as we had to lumber single-file with every car in Puglia whizzing past us and probably some twice.
We were rewarded however. Historic Ostuni is magnificent and just has to be the inspiration for Tolkien’s eastern city of Gondor. Blindingly white and narrow winding streets that the country-side breeze managed to find and, as if purely for the fun of it, raced through, almost pushing us back. We had a mission, though.
Sensing that I still wasn’t quite forgiven for the not really harrowing, but nonetheless less-than-charming walk from the train station, we settled at a table in the sun on the main piazza and ordered two large beers. Said beverages were accompanied by savory biscotti and what I can only describe as the best olives I think I’ve ever had. It was simple enjoyment, but felt very deserved. This, being well before the crush of bus tourists, we didn’t feel the least bad about hogging the table for a bit longer so we ordered another couple of beers.
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