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We were totally in love with the city of Bologna. The food scene was unbelievable, the multitude of porticos kept the summer sun from scorching us, and it was so clean. I have side to Henrik twice now if this town were closer to the sea we would be moving. But this is an exploration trip and we had planned a few day trips from our base here in Bologna.

PARMA
We bid beautiful Bologna farewell for the day and set out in a Northwestern direction towards the small city of Parma. The city is known for the prosciutto ham and parmesan cheese. Also, what we later found out was that the University of Parma is one of the oldest in the world, being founded sometime in the 10th century. There is a lovely slow moving river that we crossed upon exiting the train station to reach the centre of town. A very walkable city with some impressive architecture and an enormous Cathedral with some of the most stunning frescos I have ever seen. The exterior is clad in a pink stone and the entrance is guarded by life-sized pink marble(?) lions; most impressive. We decided to get some food for a picnic and managed to find a fruit and vegetable vendor and a place selling pizza by the weight. We also poked our nose into a very high scale grocery store that also had an open air antique market just near by. With food procured we headed off to the large Parco Ducale to sit on the grass and feast.

MODENA
After lunch we hopped on the train and headed back in the direction of Bologna to the city of Modena. This charming little city is known to us by reputation only, as Henrik’s sister frequently visits for work and brings back the most amazing balsamic vinegar. It also happens to be the place where famous Italian sports cars like Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati (wish our nephew Eli was here). We found Modena easy on the eyes. The 12th century Romanesque Cathedral with it’s soaring ceilings and simple columns was dim and very quiet inside (unlike in the Parma Cathedral where a small group of people had gathered in one of the chapel to pray aloud). I felt a little sheepish as both Henrik and I were wearing rubber-soled shoes that made echoing squeaks as we looked around. These shoes did however come in handy when we climbed the Tower. Poor Henrik had to duck many times, but the tower was cool inside and we appreciated that even if the view from the top was marred by impressive steel bars on the windows.

Visiting Duomos, Basilicas and Cathedrals in Italy
What is the difference? Well to really simplify it, a Cathedral is the home parish of a bishop. Regardless of what they are called or even if you are not religious, these are amazing sites to visit. Just remember to cover your shoulders and wear clothing that covers your knees; also if you are a woman, you may need to cover your head. Most of them allow photos (always without flash) in most areas (check for signs as some areas photos are prohibited). Offerings are not always required but having a few Euro coins can come in handy to gain access to less public areas such as crypts and towers. The thing is that what I have noticed of many of the cathedrals we have visited on this trip have removed their wax offering candles and replaced them with electric lights. It is unfortunate and a little sad, as the smell of wax and the flicker of the little lights adds to the atmosphere, oh well I guess the fire hazard was too great.

 

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The Emilia-Romagna Region in Northeastern Italy

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Parma & Modena

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